thanks for the pics and hints! One question though: How did you get out the board without ripping the two cables off that are soldered to the bulbs socket (so the AC-in cables)? They're so short, it's impossible to unsolder the ESP module as I can barely reach the pins. I would love to get the whole board out, but that seems to be impossible :/
I risked the update on a 3 gang wall switch. Bricked. It kept turning the first relay on and off forever, no recovery. power cycle didn't work. I am looking to flash it from serial now... anyone know what the labels on the pin out refer to? I have vcc and gnd, which are easy, then K1, K2, K3, and NC. Not sure how they would traslate to RX/TX and gpio...
found tx and rx, they were just a little ways away and I am apprently blind. I can't make it go to flash made though, i need to pull gpio1 to gnd, I think, but don't have a gpio1... I am kicking myself because it was basically working, and I just wanted to update it before i set it up... guess i got an old one.
Hi, thanks for the feedback - I´m aware how to upgrade - no issue with that.I was just wondering if:a.) there was a way to be sure I´m not on a device using the old bootloader, bricking the device when uploadingb.) Anybody has tried to upgrade to current version 9.4 succcessfully with a Athom LED bulbThanks - MacS
Hello, my Athom LED lamp is on Tasmota 8.5.0(tasmota), how can I identify if it is safe to flash to the latest Tasmota version? I have bought it early this year - so I would think it should be OK.
I would need to update as the HUE emulation in Tasmota is broken and only fixed as of version 9.3.1 of Tasmota ...
I am in cotact with Peter (Athom CEO). Good news. Athom will change to a full compatible Tasmota build. So soon no danger to brick a device when updating.
Athom reacted fast to the feedback of the Tasmota community! :-)
Fast Power Cycle Recovery never worked, so I had to disassemble the bulb (hot air gun a necessity to soften the glue, especially between the housing and LEDs' metal platform).
Luckily, the GND, VCC, TX, RX, REST, GPIO0 are mostly well marked and very accessible once the AJW-05_8285 board in the bulb was desoldered detached for access. Here is what had to be done:
Also, thank you @athom for the pinout info on the AJW-05_8285 board in this thread:
OTA flashed with tasmota-minimal, then my own custom tasmota.bin.gz. This bricked the bulb (due to Athom's use of memory that's different from Tasmota's use). No recovery steps worked, had to access serial ports via points on AJW-05_8285 board board after desoldering it from bulb, then flash erase then program with my custom tasmota.bin. Resolder and reassemble to get working bulb on custom Tasmota build.
To avoid this bricking (and subsequent serial flashing work), don't OTA flash from Athom firmware to tasmota-minimal. Go straight to released pre-build tasmota.bin, console "reset 5", then OTA flash custom Tasmota as needed.
Thanks Jason. I will keep trying Fast Power Cycle Device Recovery, but am not optimistic.
Athom Tech, would you provide serial flash pinout to the bulb? It looks like the connectors are there and accessible once just the bulb cover is removed.
Hey @Khoa Ton,
thanks for the pics and hints! One question though: How did you get out the board without ripping the two cables off that are soldered to the bulbs socket (so the AC-in cables)? They're so short, it's impossible to unsolder the ESP module as I can barely reach the pins. I would love to get the whole board out, but that seems to be impossible :/
Thanks an greetings,
Andy!
I bricked one of my bulbs that had tasmota on it. Is it possible to flash it form the pin header that is on the top of the PCB?
The update of my bulbs to Tasmota 9.4.0 worked with no issue - all functionality still there 🙄
I risked the update on a 3 gang wall switch. Bricked. It kept turning the first relay on and off forever, no recovery. power cycle didn't work. I am looking to flash it from serial now... anyone know what the labels on the pin out refer to? I have vcc and gnd, which are easy, then K1, K2, K3, and NC. Not sure how they would traslate to RX/TX and gpio...
Great - thanks Johann - I´ll risk an update then as well ...
My Athom bulb is running with latest Tasmota development
Hi, thanks for the feedback - I´m aware how to upgrade - no issue with that. I was just wondering if: a.) there was a way to be sure I´m not on a device using the old bootloader, bricking the device when uploading b.) Anybody has tried to upgrade to current version 9.4 succcessfully with a Athom LED bulb Thanks - MacS
Hello, my Athom LED lamp is on Tasmota 8.5.0(tasmota), how can I identify if it is safe to flash to the latest Tasmota version? I have bought it early this year - so I would think it should be OK.
I would need to update as the HUE emulation in Tasmota is broken and only fixed as of version 9.3.1 of Tasmota ...
one more thing - monitoring doesnt work mqtt broker receives only zero values. do you know how to fix it ?
i found. thx! {"NAME":"Athom PG01EU16A","GPIO":[0,0,0,17,134,132,0,0,131,157,21,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}
I didnt menation. I flashed EU Plug PG01-EU16A. doyou have config for it ?
hello! I flash with tasmota.bin.gz. Where I cant find right settings for restore ?
hello! I flash with tasmota.bin.gz. Where I cant find right settings for restore ?
Hello, is there any way to flash from the 8 pin header that is visible when opening the bulb?
Thank you Johann and Peter . This is the best way - WIN/WIN :-)
I am in cotact with Peter (Athom CEO). Good news. Athom will change to a full compatible Tasmota build. So soon no danger to brick a device when updating.
Athom reacted fast to the feedback of the Tasmota community! :-)
Jason2866
Fast Power Cycle Recovery never worked, so I had to disassemble the bulb (hot air gun a necessity to soften the glue, especially between the housing and LEDs' metal platform).
Luckily, the GND, VCC, TX, RX, REST, GPIO0 are mostly well marked and very accessible once the AJW-05_8285 board in the bulb was desoldered detached for access. Here is what had to be done:
Also, thank you @athom for the pinout info on the AJW-05_8285 board in this thread:
https://www.athom.tech/forum/light/how-to-recover-from-correct-ssid-but-wrong-wifi-password-on-initial-setup-of-athom-rgbw-bulb
Recap:
OTA flashed with tasmota-minimal, then my own custom tasmota.bin.gz. This bricked the bulb (due to Athom's use of memory that's different from Tasmota's use). No recovery steps worked, had to access serial ports via points on AJW-05_8285 board board after desoldering it from bulb, then flash erase then program with my custom tasmota.bin. Resolder and reassemble to get working bulb on custom Tasmota build.
To avoid this bricking (and subsequent serial flashing work), don't OTA flash from Athom firmware to tasmota-minimal. Go straight to released pre-build tasmota.bin, console "reset 5", then OTA flash custom Tasmota as needed.
Thanks Jason. I will keep trying Fast Power Cycle Device Recovery, but am not optimistic.
Athom Tech, would you provide serial flash pinout to the bulb? It looks like the connectors are there and accessible once just the bulb cover is removed.
The reason for this is the 2M build linker script (not supported) used.
Original Tasmota is built with 1M no SPIFFS. Using a different variant will
result in a brick when using orig. Tasmota version for upgrade.
It will be just luck when device recovers with Fast Power Cycle Device Recovery procedure
To say it crystal clear, the issue is generated from the Athom firmware variant.
I am one of the admins of Tasmota Discord and a contributer of Tasmota
Official Athom can contact me on Discord.
Sincerly Jason2866
https://discord.gg/Ks2Kzd4